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裏銀座~読売新道 10/10-13

高瀬ダム~烏帽子~水晶小屋~黒部ダム
2009年10月10日~10月13日


                                         メンバー IKD、MKN由

恒例の秋の縦走、マイカーが当たり前の時代、夏を過ぎると直通バスもなくなり山に入るのに苦労する。今年はどこから入ろうか、思い悩んでいたところ、この9月に還暦を迎えて、自由の身となったIKDさんが山行につき合ってくれるという。車で入れるなら3連休に有休が1日とれたので4日間をフルに使える。そこで以前より歩きたかった烏帽子岳から裏銀座を水晶岳経由で赤牛岳を辿って読売新道を縦走し黒部湖に抜けるという欲張った山行を計画した。

10月9日 安曇野ビバーク(事情聴取?)
夕方大阪を出発、深夜12時過ぎ、豊科で高速を降りて、今夜のねぐらの安曇野の道の駅に到着。裏手で車の横にマットを広げていたら、パトカーが来た。明日早朝から山に行くので仮眠することを伝えたら、こんなところで寝るのかと驚いている様子。免許証を提示させられた。山の事故も多いから携帯を持参するように。貴重品に気をつけて。なんかあったら110番通報するようにと言って去って行った。心配されていたのか、怪しまれていたのかよくわからない。

10月10日 秋山のはずが冬山に(高瀬ダム~野口五郎小屋)
朝5時起きで大町温泉郷に車で向かう。6時過ぎ、車回送業者の?日星さんに到着。パッキングをして朝食後、七倉まで送ってもらった。IKDさんの車は、下山予定の13日に回送業者の方が扇沢に運んでくれることになっている。七倉からは、タクシーに乗り換え高瀬ダムに入った。風が強い。

登山口から今日のビバーク予定地、烏帽子小屋までは標高差にして1200m。ひたすら登りで忍耐の一日だ。途中、ブルーベリーを食べて気を紛らす。天候は曇っていて、暑くなくてよいかと思っていたが、そのうち霰が降ってきた。構えていたわりには、急登なので高度が稼げてあっけなく到着してしまった。しかし、雪はいよいよ本降りになっていた。

ガスっていたので予定していた烏帽子岳ピストンは中止にした。かといって2時からテントに入っても夜が長すぎるから、水晶小屋に向かって、行けるところまで距離を伸ばすことにした。ここから先は、3泊目ビバーク予定の奥黒部ヒュッテまで水がとれないので、1人4L分の水を小屋で購入した。小屋の方が並々と注いでくれたから結局6Lもらってしまい、背負うとザックがどっしり重かった。
重量が増えたこと、雪で歩き難いことで距離が進まない。雷鳥達が私達の行く道を誘導するかのように前を歩く。こんなガスの日は天敵から攻撃される心配がないのだろう。雷鳥は羽が白くなっていたが、私達はまだ体が冬モードに切り替わってないから、雪と風が寒く体に応えた。秋山のつもりだったのに、寒いのが苦手なIKDさんには酷な還暦山行になったと、申し訳ない思いだった。

池田さん
           
野口五郎小屋に着いた頃には、見渡す山一面真っ白に冬山と化していた。水を購入する必要はなかったかもしれない。
テントは重いからとツェルトにしたことを後悔したが、閉まっていると思っていた小屋に人の気配があり、扉が開いた。どうやら、小屋は開放してくれていて、先行の2名が小屋にいた。彼らは、こんな天候の日に自分達以外登山者はないだろうと話していたらしいが、冷えた小屋が暖かくなると歓迎してくれた。小屋の屋根裏に登りマットを広げた。外は雪が降っているのになんてありがたいのだろうと、皆でつくづく喜んだ。小屋の中は冷蔵庫のようでよく冷えたので、夜はツェルトの中で寝た。外では一晩中ピュ―ピュ―と風の音がしていた。

10月11日 秘境の温泉(野口五郎小屋~高天ヶ原温泉)                         
朝、明るくなってから小屋を出た。雪は20センチほど積もっていた。昨日歩いてきた烏帽子からの稜線も目指す水晶岳、赤牛岳の稜線も全て真っ白になってしまった。槍の稜線がきれいに見えて富士山も顔を出し、360度のパノラマがすばらしい。水晶岳の稜線にブロッケン現象が見えて手を振ると影が揺れた。

水晶岳
                野口五郎岳から水晶岳を見る


一緒に小屋で泊まった男女は、雪山の準備ができてないからといって、予定を変更して湯俣温泉に降りることにされた。私達は、当初の計画では、水晶岳を越えて読売新道を歩くつもりだったが、水晶小屋から高天ヶ原経由で読売新道を歩くことにした。ピッケルもアイゼンもなかったので、重いザックを背負って雪がついた岩稜の水晶岳を通過するのは、危険かもしれないという判断だが、実は高天ヶ原の温泉に惹かれていた。男女は「今夜はお互い、温泉ですね。赤牛岳は白牛になってしまったけれど、頑張ってね。」と言ってわざわざ歩荷されたみかんを1つづつ下さった。

水晶小屋にザックを置いて水晶岳まで空身でピストンした。アイゼンがないので足を滑らさないよう慎重に歩いたが、思ったほど雪はついていなかった。水晶岳には三俣からピストンされているらしき人もいた。水晶小屋でザックをピックアップして、三俣と雲の平との分岐の岩苔乗越で高天ヶ原へと沢を下った。沢の水は所々凍っていてザクザク氷を潰しながら歩いた。開けて明るい沢。天気も予報通り、快晴。水が流れているということは、なんと心和み、心強いことだろう。途中、反対に登ってくる男性に出会った。昨夜は、1人で高天ヶ原温泉の横でテントを張っていたそうだ。下れど、下れど、高天ヶ原にはたどり着かない。下るのは構わないが、明日は、標高2050mから今日降りた分稜線まで再度登らないといけないと思うとぞっとした。3時40分、ようやく営業を終了して扉がしっかり閉ざされた、高天ヶ原小屋が見えてきた。小屋から20分ほどで温泉沢に到着した。暗くなる前にと、明日登る道を確認した。沢の中の石に赤いマーキングがあり、聞いていた通りルートは通されているようだ。ただ、明日もし途中道が崩れていたり、渡渉できなかったりしたら引き返して湯俣温泉に降りるか、三俣山荘経由で新穂に降りるかとなる。無事通過できることを祈るのみだった。

温泉の真横の石でぼこぼこの所を整地して、二人がなんとか寝ることができるスペースを確保し、ツェルトを張った。谷に向かって足湯をしながら、ビールで乾杯。空に星が煌きはじめた。池田さんがいつものスルメの足を焼き、焼酎を呑みほっこりした。谷から見る光景は、まるで星空の映画館だった。
温泉

IKDさんがテントで食事をするというので先に温泉に入った。温泉は熱めでよく温まった。至福のひととき。昨夜の風雪の冬山の世界が嘘のようだった。食後、寝る前に再度温泉につかった。明日の天候を約束するかのような満点の星だった。温泉からあがっても体がぽかぽか熱いので靴下も履かずに薄着でシュラフに入ってしまったが、朝まで冷えなかった。温泉の効能を実感した。

10月12日 念願の赤牛岳(高天ヶ原~赤牛岳~東沢谷出合い)
名残惜しいが朝6時出発。温泉沢を登る。沢は石が凍っていてつるつるよく滑り、右岸、左岸と渡渉するのに苦労した。1時間半ほどで、稜線との出合いの温泉沢の頭に登る分岐点に到着。分岐点を見落とすのではないかと心配したが、しっかりとした標識があり、残地ロープで稜線沿いの登山道に登った。温泉沢も無事突破でき、この稜線の道もしっかり踏み後があるようでほっとしたが、ここから試練の急登が続くから覚悟した。今日は、黒部の東沢谷に辿り着きたいから、バテルわけにはいかない。
気持ちのよい自然林が続いた。温泉で昨日の疲れはとれてしまったかもしれない。森林限界を超えたら、昨年登った薬師の稜線や、黒部五郎のカールが見渡せて、すばらしい景観でうれしかった。ガレた道に霜が立ち、雪がついていた。高度が増すにつれ岩稜となりバリエーションぽく楽しい。この先、アイゼンがないのは不安だったが、天気がよく日差しも強くなってきたので、昼間なら凍る心配はないだろう。
9時頃、ようやく水晶岳の少し北、読売新道の稜線上、温泉沢の頭に出た。水晶岳ピークからここまでは、コースタイムにして40分だから、随分長いエスケープであった。

薬師岳
                薬師岳

もうたいした登りはないと思うと、ほっとした。しかし、稜線沿い越えるピークは、岩稜に雪がついて緊張が続く。稜線は小さな雪庇ができて、冬の始まりを感じた。12時半、ようやく赤牛岳に辿り着いた。どっしりと鎮座しているこの山を遠くから見て、いつか登りたいなあと思いながらも入山が不便だから難しいと思っていたのだが。登頂、万歳! 最後のパノラマの景観をしっかり目に収めた。

水晶槍
       赤牛岳山頂付近より振り返り水晶岳を見る。後ろに槍

赤牛岳からは、ほぼひたすら下りだ。谷中の道はぬかるんで歩きづらかったが、とにかく日が暮れるまでに沢に出たいという一心で歩いた。日暮れかけたころ奥黒部ヒュッテに到着した。東沢谷に水を求めて降りたら焚き火跡があり、残された木もあったので、迷わずそこでツェルトを張った。木はよく乾いていて一発点火。昨日に続き満点の星空。すばらしい山行であったことに感激しながら焚き火で最後の夜を楽しんだ。

10月13日 黒部湖へ(東沢谷出合い ~ 平ノ渡 ~ 黒部ダム)
平ノ渡しまではコースタイムで2時間。10時20分発の船に乗るので朝はゆっくり出発するつもりだったが4時に目がさめてしまった。焚き火をしようかということになり、早朝から焚き火で温まり、ゆっくりと朝食をとった。7時すぎに出発。船が出る1時間前に到着してしまったのでコーヒーで温まって船を待った。対岸からの船は10時発のはずなのだが、乗せるお客さんがないのだろう、15分になっても現れない。しびれを切らしたIKDさんが、心配して対岸に向かって笛を吹いたら、少ししてようやく船が向かってきた。待ちくたびれていたので、到着と同時に飛び乗った。乗船名簿に名前を書いて間もなく船は5分ほどで対岸にたどり着いた。
船を下りて、あとは単調に歩くのみ。昨年、上の廊下を下った時、最終のトロリーバスに乗る為に疲れた脚で必死で歩いたのを懐かしく思い出した。今回は時間に余裕はあるので急ぐことはない。黒部湖が見え、目の前に雪がついた立山が聳え立ち感慨深かった。
13時30分、トロリー黒部ダム駅に到着した。退職組らしき年配の観光客でいっぱいだった。

今回の山行、単独なら烏帽子往復で終わっていたかもしれない。
2日目から天候も回復して、雪、沢、温泉、景色、全てを楽しみ、なんて運のよい山行だったかと思う。楽しく充実した山行になった。IKDさんに感謝したい。

                                       記録: MKN由
[アクセス]
行き
10/ 9 大阪17:00~豊科0:15~安曇野道の駅 (車)
10/10 大町5:10~大町温泉郷(車)6:15/7:10~七倉(ハイヤー)7:30~高瀬ダム(タクシー)7:45
帰り
10/13 黒部ダム14:05~扇沢14:21(トロリーバス) 扇沢14:30~大阪20:40 (車)

[コースタイム]
10/10 高瀬ダム7:50 → 烏帽子小屋 12:45 → 野口五郎小屋16:50
10/11 野口五郎小屋 6:50 → 水晶小屋 10:20 → 水晶岳 11:10 → 水晶小屋 12:10
→ 岩苔乗越 13:00 → 高天ヶ原温泉 16:00    
10/12 高天ヶ原温泉 6:00 → 温泉沢の頭 9:10 → 赤牛岳 12:30 → 東沢谷出合い17:20
10/13 東沢谷出合い 7:10 → 平ノ渡し 9:20/10:30 → 黒部ダム 13:30

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